Tourist visas to enter Cambodia are issued upon arrival at Siem Reap Airport for around $20. Bring one passport-sized photo for the visa and two more such photos for a pass to the Angkor temples, which is only available at the entrance gate to Angkor.
Language
Khmer is the official language but English is so widely spoken in Siem Reap that you’ll have no problems. French is another common lingua franca.
Attire
Light, loose, comfortable clothes and good walking shoes are best for touring the Angkor ruins. No matter what time of year, it’s also a good idea to bring a sun hat, sunglasses, and a small umbrella for protection against sun and rain.
Tour guides
In Siem Reap, the tour guides will find you first. High demand and steep competition keeps quality high and prices low ($15-$25/day). Have a good talk with your guide beforehand to tell them what you want and to get a sense of what they can offer. Most are trustworthy and well-trained.
Temple transportation
Need a ride to the temples? The most affordable way to get there is via tuk-tuk, which can be hired for around $15 per day. Alternatively, spend $20 to hire a professional tour guide from the Tourism Association next to the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor. Hotels will also organize driver-led sightseeing excursions for around $25. In each case, ask the driver to wait for you at stopping points.
Getting around
Book taxis ahead of time through your hotel to guarantee that you end up with a reputable driver. Tuk-tuks, or motorized rickshaws, are also a good (and affordable; short distances cost around $1) option for getting around town. A third option is to rent a bike, an option that will also allow you to make the trip to the temples on your own (about a 20-minute ride).
Commissions
Resist drivers, vendors, and guides who push you towards a particular hotel, restaurants, or store with little explanation. Most receive commissions for the number of unsuspecting tourists they pull in.
Angkor admission
Admission passes are required to enter Angkor – pick one up at the Banteay Srei entrance at 4:30pm the day before to bypass long lines (costs: $20 for a daily pass; $40 for a 3-day; $60 for a 7-day). Carry your ticket at all times – controllers peruse the temples all day long and anyone caught without a valid ticket faces hefty fines.
Exchange rate
Local currency is the Cambodian Riel (KHR); $1 buys about 4,000 riels. Dollars and Euros are the often preferred currency, but only crisp, new bills are accepted.
Shopping no-no’s
Inside Angkor Archaelogical Park, be aware that if you buy from one street vendor, the rest will come running after you. Touching an item means that you wish to buy it. If you’re not interested in a dealer’s wares, shake your head and walk away quickly.
Not worth it
Sunrise tours are all hype and no fun. The crowds are perilous and the view often spoiled by morning jungle mist. Skip it and sleep in. Likewise, forget catching a sunset from the hilltop temple of Phnom Bankheng – the hundreds of tourists ascending by car and elephants make it more hassle than its worth.
Crowd Control
The main temples of Angkor are packed in the morning hours. To avoid the rush, start your day touring the outer, lesser-known temples then move in to the center in the afternoon.
References
The following books provide excellent insights into Khmer history: The Customs of Cambodia by Zhou Dagun, (The Siam Society, Bangkok, 2001); Khmer Mythology: The Secrets of Angkor by Vittorio Roveda (Weatherhill, 1998).
Departure taxes
Keep enough cash to pay a departure tax of $6 for domestic flights and $25 for international departures.
