The sumptuous décor, stained-glass windows, painted ceilings, and wood carvings are just a few hints that this small, 22-room, family-run hotel used to be the mid-19th century home of a cardinal. The well-preserved Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) breakfast room and the Chinese Room are especially beautiful. Guest rooms aren’t as fancy but are comfortable and tasteful. Unit sizes vary, as do bathroom features. Travelers on a tight budget should book a top floor room with shared bathrooms.