Buenos Aires: Tips

Live like a local Live For a homier experience than hotels or hostels, rent an apartment. This is agency offers short-term furnished apartment rentals all over town. www.bytargentina.com

Reset your body clock Porteños don’t eat dinner until what might be considered bedtime for many. Stave off hunger with a merienda (late afternoon/teatime snack) and enjoy a short nap before hitting the town to dine at 10pm.

ATMs and cash Some neighborhood bank machines limit withdrawals to 300 pesos; downtown ATMs have higher limits. It can be tricky to break a 100-peso note on the street so get change for big bills whenever you have the chance.

Transportation Cabs are abundant and cheap; call for a radio taxi whenever possible. The subway is efficient but stops running at 10pm. Busses, which only accept coins, provide a scenic way to get around the city. Pick up a Guia T guide at one of the many kioskos to navigate routes.

Café etiquette Linger as long as you like; the waitstaff won’t bring a bill until the customer asks for the check. As is also the case with restaurants and bars, a 10-percent tip is customary. If you want a cigarette with your coffee, choose an outdoor table. Buenos Aires went smoke-free in October 2006.

Language Basic English is spoken at most tourist sites, but a Spanish phrasebook will ease getting around. Consider a dictionary for food items. Argentine Spanish has an almost Italian accent (“ll’’ and ‘y’ take a “zh” sound) and the dialect differs slightly from Spanish spoken in other countries (“vos” replaces “tu”).