Though time-consuming, long-distance bus travel is inexpensive, safe, and comfortable. Opt for the pricier, reclining cama seats when going on long hauls. All buses are privately operated – we recommend Turbus company.
Argentina También
Planning to visit Argentina, too? Consider the Cruce de Lagos, a one- or two-day, ultra-scenic, combination-bus-and-boat trip between Puerto Montt, Chile, and Bariloche, Argentina. Travel on a sunny day.
Tea Time
The key to holding out until after 9pm to eat dinner, like most Chileans, is the once (afternoon tea, pronounced "ohn-say"). This light snack, usually a sandwich or pastry with tea or coffee, is taken between 4 and 7pm.
Bank Ahead
Banks close at 2pm. ATMs are widely available in larger cities, although you may run into state-imposed, daily $300 withdrawal limits. Break larger bills whenever possible, especially for taxis, tipping, and visits to smaller, off-the-beaten-path towns.
Reciprocity fee
U.S. citizens must pay a $100 fee upon arrival to Chile. The receipt is stapled into your passport and covers future re-entry for the life of the passport.
Background
Since the 17-year military dictatorship ended in 1990, Chile has redefined itself. The country continues to be one of the most economically stable in South America. Chileans elected their first female president, Michelle Bachelet, in 2006.
Cuisine
Don’t miss paila marina (seafood stew) and pastel de choclo (a hearty casserole of meat, eggs and corn). Top brewery Cervecería Kuntsmann produces superb beers.
Land of Poets
Poets Gabriela Mistral and Pablo Neruda, both Nobel Laureates, are Chilean treasures. For a glimpse into Neruda’s life and muse, visit his homes La Chascona, La Sebastiana, and Isla Negra.
Café con Piernas
Stand-up coffee bars where scantily-clad women serve men cortados and espressos is a rather non-PC Santiago trademark. For an upright, fully-clothed cup of joe try Café Háiti or Café Caribe on Paseo Ahumada in Santiago and avoid dark-windowed cafes.
