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Bioluminescent Bays When it’s pitch dark, paddle out to one of these bioluminescent inlets (in Fajardo, Parguera, and Vieques – though Vieques is said to have the best one in the world) and jump into the water. Your entire body will glow, caused by the defense mechanism of the dinoflagellates that swim in the water. Vieques; www.gotopuertorico.com/puerto-rico-bio-bays.php
Casa Bacardi Visitor Center Discover the history of the Bacardi family – which has some of its roots in Puerto Rico – and order a Cuba Libre (rum and Coke) at this relatively new museum on the site of the distillery. www.casabacardi.org
Convention Center District The area around the new Puerto Rico Convention Center, not far from Condado and Old San Juan, houses a growing number of shops and restaurants, such as the Ficus Café – though not until it's completed in 2010 will the place really start to hop. San Juan; 100 Convention Blvd.; 787-722-3309; www.prconvention.com
El Yunque The 28,000-acre preserve is almost as much mountain as it is rainforest, so get ready for some serious hiking. You’ll hear the Coqui (pronounced co-KEE), a tree frog named after its squeaking mating call. Rio Grande; www.fs.fed.us/r8/Caribbean
Isla Verde Beach San Juan’s widest, best-looking beach is on Isla Verde. Most of the beach is taken up by luxury hotels and condos, but it’s never so crowded that you can’t find a spot. For a quieter sunbath, find your way onto Ocean Park Beach, between Isla Verde and Condado to the west.
Local Music Given that Puerto Ricans are a blend of European, Afro-Caribbean, and Taíno Indian ancestry, it only makes sense that their music – salsa, bomba, plena, and seis – is drawn from all those cultures. Listen (and dance) to salsa at Rumba Night Club, in Old San Juan, or hear local guitar trios on Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan, Sunday evenings before sunset. Old San Juan; Rumba, 152 Calle San Sebastián; 787-365-1418
Museo De Arte Puerto Rico The elegant, comprehensive museum is worth the drive to the west side of the city, but a meal at Pikayo, Wylie Benet’s on-site restaurant, will show diners all that Criollo (Spanish for Creole) cuisine can be. Santurce; Ave. de Diego 299; www.mapr.org
N Lounge On a pleasant night, scenesters should cruise the boutique Normandie Hotel’s club-lite outdoor bar for a drink. The hotel was built to look like an ocean liner, and the bar, its upper deck. Condado; 499 Ave. Munoz Rivera esq. Rosales; 787-729-2929; www.normandiepr.com
Rio Camuy Caves Ride a trolley into these majestic caves, carved out eons ago by the Rio Camuy River, which still runs through them. The sound-of-body can sign up for spelunking trips through eco-tour operators; the weak-of-heart will be more than impressed with the trolley tour. The total number of visitors each day is limited, so book early. 787-898-3100; www.gotopuertorico.com/puerto-rico-camuy-cavern.php
San Juan National Historic Site Explore the vestiges of El Morro and San Cristobal, two massive forts dating from 1539 – and used by the U.S. army until 1951 – at this protected Old San Juan site. Old San Juan; www.nps.gov/saju