Puerto Vallarta Editor Picks

An atmospheric villa stay at a reasonable price can be had at this seven-suite villa-cum-bed-and-breakfast – a special sanctuary situated on a dazzling cove on Playa Conchas Chinas, just south of Mismaloya. The unique “Mexatarranean” inn, as it’s often described, offers tall doors with lattice terraces, a thatched-roof dinning room, and a pool with a sun-drenched terrace. Eclectic decorum – a mix of elegant European styles, quirky trimmings, and original art – fill the common spaces and guestrooms. A quaint living room with a cozy fireplace and trophy antlers mounted on the wall (one of the many surprising touches that make the place so memorable) serves as a welcoming gathering area, while the palapa dining room hosts breakfast Monday to Saturday from 9am-10am. A shorefront veranda with Roman columns has beach chairs for lounging and the massive rocks just offshore create calm pools, perfect for a refreshing dip. All seven charming suites, which occupy one of the seven floors, are completely original with a whimsical grandeur all their own. The lot comes complete with a kitchenette or full kitchen, air-conditioning, private baths, and balconies or terraces (with the exception of the Jessica suite which has no balcony and limited views). We love the Maria, all 12000 square feet of it, with its dramatic sumptuous style, rich colors, antique armoires, graceful canopied bed, and superb ocean views. The split-level Guadalupe suite is also fabulous with a fantastic beachfront spot right on the sand.

Enveloped by jungle and overlooking the Pacific, the mountains, and the thatched-roofs of Yelapa’s village, Verana is a destination on its own. Six fantastical little houses, all with a completely different style and ambience ranging from bohemian to minimalist, dot the lush hillside. Mango and lemon trees, an infinity pool (fed by natural spring waters), bar, and restaurant flank the tropical grounds while a posh spa offers soothing treatments. With steep stone walkways and the ever-present threat of scorpions (keep those shoes on!), a young hippie-chic, nature lovin’ set follows. A European chef prepares praiseworthy meals, mostly international-style cuisine with a touch of Mexican flair, twice daily. Verana also offers boat trips, walks to the waterfall, and yoga classes. Owners, Heinz Legler, former set director, and Veronique Lièvre, interior designer, often refer to Verana’s rooms as six movie sets. Pick from a palapa-style cottage with no walls, stone floors, eclectic furnishings, and gauzy drapes; a Mediterranean-style stone house with rustic adornments and warm colors; or a striking minimalist studio with polished cement.

The superlative colonial-style hacienda is made up of several villas with commanding views of the muddled village and bay; one of the villas was originally purchased by Richard Burton as a gift for his wife. While the beach and Old Town are within walking distance, this heavenly antique-filled hotel is so divine – dotted with such lush courtyards, pools, and trickling fountains – you may not want to leave at all.

A Mariachi band or a quartet serenades guests every evening at 6pm in the courtyard where guests can enjoy sweet mojitos and complimentary snacks (be sure to sample the spicy guacamole). Continental breakfasts with warm croissants, sweet yogurt, and coffee or tea, are brought to your room every morning.

The hacienda’s suites are all superbly decorated with one-of-a-kind antiques. One of our favorites, Celestial Suite, comes with a dripping candelabra, a gorgeous four-poster bed with billowing gossamer drapes, a Venetian chandelier (circa 1850), a 17th-century silk tapestry, and its own large palapa complete with a thatched roof, private bar, sitting area, and fantastic views of the town, the water, and the velvety Sierra hillside.

2008 SMART LUXURY WINNER
Charming Costa Alegre Perch

When Janice Chatterton finally decided to share her colonial-era home and its unmatched views over old Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay with the world, she didn’t scrimp. In fact, she spent six years collecting fine colonial furniture and artwork (from quirky folk pieces to intricate religious art), and acquiring four adjacent villas to create a sprawling hacienda with 16 spacious suites. The staff can direct you to Puerto Vallarta’s best-kept-secret galleries, eateries, and stretches of sand, unless you’d rather sample the three on-site heated pools. Best season for value: early summer.

Great Value Alternative: Cozy Quinta Maria Cortez hotel has great views and excellent service. From $140/night; www.quinta-maria.com

See more Smart Luxury Award winners

 

This federal underwater park and eco-preserve is considered the best snorkeling and scuba-diving site around. Outings to the sunken coves are a must for underwater admirers – watch for spotted eagle rays, clownfish, and octopi.

Just south of Los Muertos, Playa Conchas Chinas (Curly Shells Beach) comprises several petite coves that stretch for about a mile below condo-filled hillsides. Swim in gentle waves, fish off the rocks, or snorkel in the calm pools.

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