Everything to Know About Cruising to Svalbard, the Tiny Norwegian Archipelago Halfway Between Norway and the North Pole | ShermansTravel
Everything to Know About Cruising to Svalbard, the Tiny Norwegian Archipelago Halfway Between Norway and the North Pole
Emily Zemler | September 13, 2024
Courtesy of Aurora/Adrian Wlodarczyk
Polar cruising has become increasingly popular in recent years, with many travelers curious to explore the globe’s most extreme places. Antarctica draws hundreds of thousands of cruisers each season, while those interested in the far north have several options. Greenland and Iceland have a broad allure, as does Alaska, which is becoming rather overcrowded in the summers. But above the Arctic Circle Svalbard continues to be less traveled. The archipelago, accessible by plane from Oslo or Tromsø in Norway, has less than 3,000 inhabitants, who largely live in the town of Longyearbyen. The rest of the islands are remote and teeming with wildlife, from puffins to bearded seals to the sought-after polar bear. It’s best experienced by ship, particularly an expedition vessel.
“It’s the best concentration of the Arctic,” explains Christophe Bouchoux, the expedition leader on Aurora Expeditions’ Svalbard Odyssey sailing, which I joined in August. “It’s a small place, but landscape-wise you have tundra, polar desert, pointy mountains covered in snow, glaciers, and icebergs. “It’s filled with wildlife. In a short amount of time you can really experience the different facets of what the Arctic is. It’s a good introduction.”
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Michael Baynes
Aurora Expeditions is one of a few cruise lines that explore Svalbard (more on that below), which is best seen on a small ship (Aurora’s Greg Mortimer can hold 120 passengers), particularly leading into the 2025 summer season when Svalbard’s government will enact restrictions on several landing sites, including the number of people who can be on shore at a time. It’s all in service of protecting the environment and wildlife, but it’s up to travelers to pick a responsible cruise line that follows the rules and emphasizes sustainability.
As more and more travelers head to still-under-the-radar Svalbard, here is everything you need to know about cruising there, including what to pack, when to go, and what to expect.
When to Go:
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Adrian Wlodarczyk
Longyearbyen is located at 78 degrees north, which means it is dark almost all day in the winter and bright all summer. While there are Northern Lights cruisers during the colder months, Svalbard is best experienced on a cruise between June and August. When you book a trip depends on what your priorities are.
“If you are into birds it's better to come early, but not too early,” Bouchoux says. “Come at the end of June or beginning of July, and you will see many birds. If you are a landscape photographer late in the season is good because the sun is going to come back to the horizon and the colors will be incredible. If you are after polar bears then July or August is best because the ship can have some mobility — if you come too early you might be blocked by sea ice. It just depends on your expectations.”
What to Expect:
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Adrian Wlodarczyk
Like Greenland, Svalbard offers a lot of varied landscapes. There are more than 2,100 glaciers throughout Svalbard and most cruises will do their best to get you up close and personal, either via the ship or on the Zodiac rafts used by the expedition companies. There are many scenic fjords, as well as the famous Bråsvellbreen, one of the largest ice walls in the world. A typical cruise will include the main island of Spitsbergen, where Longyearbyen is located, and some of the adjacent islands. Our cruise went as far as Kvitøya, known as “the white island,” on the far east of the archipelago. We also chased the sea ice up to 81.43 degrees north to stand on an ice floe. On Aurora Expeditions, which operates similarly to many other expedition cruise lines, there is no set itinerary for Svalbard.
On the first day, Bouchoux does his best to set out the expectations for the trip (I’ve experienced similar in Antarctica and Greenland). The itinerary is guided by intentions, but it’s ultimately controlled by the weather. “We need to adapt to the reality of nature,” he told the guests during the initial briefing, asking everyone for “flexibility and trust.”
“Flexibility is a big plus,” Bouchoux says. “Don’t come with a preconceived idea. Be ready to learn. We can’t guarantee anything, but we can guarantee we will try a lot. No one on this ship is more motivated than me to try to find a polar bear and show it to you.”
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Al Bakker
In terms of activities, it also depends on the weather and the cruise line. Aurora Expeditions has a special kayaking program where guests can pay to be part of a small group that kayaks at any given opportunity (Seabourn, alternatively, offers one-off kayaking trips). Each day in Svalbard brings something different, whether it’s a Zodiac cruise along the bird cliffs at Alkefjellet, home to thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots, or a hike at Boltodden, where travelers can spot dinosaur tracks along the shore.
The landings are guided by the polar bears, who can be anywhere at any time. The expedition team carries rifles and landings can be canceled if a polar bear is spotted within a few miles. Because they are required to shoot to kill a polar bear that comes within 30 meters (98 feet) of a human, it’s extremely important to ensure cruisers keep their distance. That’s especially hard if it’s foggy because the white bears are hard to spot.
“We are a big threat to the polar bears, so we take it very seriously,” Bouchoux says. “We don’t want to compromise the life of the polar bear. We could have a perfect place for a landing, but if it’s foggy we can’t take the risk. Instead, we can stay on the Zodiacs and not risk the polar bear’s life.”
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Scott Portelli
Although cruising tends to draw an older crowd, expedition cruising requires more mobility, especially in the Arctic. Landings, which are all made by Zodiac, can be wet and slippery, with steep shores. You don’t have to be an athlete to come — Aurora’s expedition team offered three different levels of walks on each landing — but it helps to know your limits and abilities. Bouchoux recommends that guests ask themselves if they are fit enough for each aspect of the cruise, including the landings and the walks.
“You need to have a minimum of mobility,” he says. “Be able to walk by yourself for some time and be able to help yourself out of the Zodiac. Be able to swing your legs out of the Zodiac, to sit on the Zodiac, and get up from the ground. If you know you cannot walk, it’s okay to stay on the ship.”
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Michael Bayes
Ultimately, no cruise to Svalbard will be the same. It’s based on your expedition leader, the weather, the season, and, of course, what wildlife presents itself.
“My top tip would be trying to level with the place and with the experience that you can have here,” says Marcos Goldin, expedition team member, geologist, and Citizen Science coordinator on the Greg Mortimer. “I really relate to the way of traveling that we have onboard, saying, ‘Okay, there is no schedule, there is no telling what will happen.’ You wake up and you do whatever the elements will allow you to do. I think that's very refreshing. Ease into that way of experiencing the place. Forget that you are on a cruise that you bought and that you have a certain amount of places you want to visit or a certain amount of experiences or encounters you’re expecting, and embrace that new mindset.”
How to Pack:
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Michael Baynes
Most cruise lines provide packing lists for passengers embarking on polar cruises. Aurora offers extensive guidance, which is sent out ahead of departure, and it’s important to read all of the information your chosen company provides. Svalbard is remote and extreme, with rapidly shifting weather even in the winter. When I went in August, it was less than 25 F on most days (although Longyearbyen was a more temperate 45 F). It can be rainy, foggy, and damp, and having the proper gear is essential when visiting destinations in the Arctic and Antarctic.
In Svalbard, there is a legal requirement for cruise passengers to wear a waterproof outer layer on top and bottom while exploring. Most cruise lines provide a branded waterproof jacket, but it’s up to guests to source a pair of waterproof outer trousers. I recommend unlined Helly Hansen waterproof pants, but you can find options for all budgets. Aurora, like most cruise companies, also provides waterproof muck boots, which are worn in the Zodiacs and on shore instead of your own shoes or boots.
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Peter Eastway
Under your waterproof clothes, wear layers. Long underwear or wool thermals are a good idea, as is a fleece layer. I prefer Sweaty Betty’s thermal running leggings under my waterproof trousers, but as long as you pick something that is sweat-wicking and intended for cold weather you won’t go wrong. Bring at least two pairs of gloves (they should be waterproof if possible) and have several hats to swap out if it’s raining. On the Zodiacs, assume you will get wet. I carry a small dry-bag backpack and keep my phone in a dry pouch that has touchscreen capability. If you’re bringing photography equipment, have a dry bag specifically for camera gear.
“Equipment is very important,” Bouchoux says. “Sometimes we have people coming and the warmest trousers they have is a pair of jeans. You must be waterproof from head to toe. It’s a regulation and I think it’s a good regulation because the weather can change brutally. You can have flat water and suddenly 45 knots of wind. And when you have 45 knots of wind, you have water everywhere. You get very wet. If you are not in waterproof clothes, you will suffer.”
Onboard, comfort is king. Some cruise lines, like Seabourn, encourage passengers to dress up in the evenings, but Aurora is all about being casual. I like to have a pair of Uggs (or fake Uggs) to wear around the ship because they are warm and easy to slip on and off when changing into my muck boots. If you plan to do the polar plunge or to use an onboard jacuzzi, bring a swimsuit. Don’t forget an electric converter, chargers, a camera card reader, and headphones for travel. I also recommend an iPad with movies and books pre-loaded for downtime.
Understanding the Polar Bears:
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Michael Bayes
At the beginning of each cruise, Bouchoux gives a polar bear safety briefing. It includes how to behave when the bears are spotted and what the laws are in terms of encounters. There are a lot of rules of engagement, including how far the ship must stay from the bears and when the team can take the Zodiacs out to observe bears on the shore. Polar bears are the main thing most Arctic cruisers hope to see and Bouchoux said he has yet to disappoint a group of passengers visiting Svalbard. We saw more than 10 polar bears, some from very close up (following the legal distance set by cruise association AECO), but not every cruise sees that many.
“That’s the main attraction,” he says. “Everyone is hoping to see a polar bear. And I know that sometimes there are some cruises without polar bears. I'm lucky enough that it has never happened to me. I have seen at least one polar bear on every cruise until now.”
Like with all aspects of expedition cruising, seeing wildlife is about flexibility and luck. The team is always on the lookout — and you will be, too, by the end of the cruise.
Tips for Cruising to Svalbard:
Credit: Courtesy of Aurora/Adrian Wlodarczyk
Svalbard is very remote and it is unlikely you will have cell phone signal outside Longyearbyen. Although some of the ships have Wi-Fi, it can be spotty and inconsistent, so it’s best to plan accordingly. I was able to make WhatsApp calls and check email during my cruise, but sometimes the Wi-Fi went out completely.
If possible, take an extra day or two in Longyearbyen. The town is very modern, with nice restaurants, shops, and museums. My favorite spots were Café Huskies, a husky-filled coffee shop, and Huset, a fine dining restaurant that incorporates local ingredients.
Get a waterproof phone pouch that hangs around your neck for the Zodiacs. This is worth repeating. I saw multiple guests holding their cell phones over the water to take pictures and one person even had their cell phone in a wallet with credit cards dangling over the open ocean. The expedition team said passengers regularly drop their phones into the sea, so don’t let that be you.
Bring seasickness medication and remedies. We had three nights of rocky seas and it was miserable. I took Dramamine, but you should find what works best for your body. Some people swear by ginger tablets and pressure point wrist brands.
Go to every single lecture and event onboard. The lectures were a highlight of my cruise and they were given by very skilled and informed expedition team members. There were also opportunities for Citizen Science, including a beach clean-up to remove plastic waste from Svalbard’s wilderness.
Cruise Lines That Visit Svalbard
Several cruise lines incorporate Svalbard in their itineraries or offer dedicated Svalbard cruises.
Travelers who prefer luxury cruise ships can book with companies like Silversea or Seabourn, while Viking features stops in Svalbard on several of its Arctic cruise itineraries.
Bigger ships like those owned by MSC also port in Longyearbyen but aren’t able to navigate the fjords and smaller areas of Svalbard as well as smaller expedition ships. I recommend going on a ship with less than 400 passengers to ensure the best experience.
