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We stayed at the Alpaga Hotel (www.lodgemontagnard.com). This and Le Fer à Cheval (www.feracheval-megeve.com) are smart luxury picks. The Alpaga has chalets and regular rooms. Design is contemporary, and the service is excellent. Le Fer à Cheval is more traditional, and it has a better location, within walking distance to town. The Alpaga is just a 5-minute van shuttle and has wonderful mountain views.

For eating, a must for dinner is Le Fer à Cheval. Start with a "Sprits" at the warm and woodsy bar – a Sprits cocktail is made of Aperol mixed with club soda and Champagne. Also quite nice and a good value for lunch or dinner in town are Les Enfants Terribles (pictured above at right; www.hotelmontblanc.com) and the Brasserie Centrale (011-33-4-50-21-22-44).

On the mountain, for a nice lunch break, go to L'Alpette (www.alpette-megeve.com). It's perfect for a midday rest with good food and stunning views of Mont Blanc. Be sure to reserve in advance.

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