Enchanté
As the most upscale of three canal barges operated by European Waterways on the historical Canal du Midi in southwest France, Enchanté certainly lives up to its name, which is French and translates to "delighted" or "pleased to meet you." Like a well-appointed bed-and-breakfast, this beautifully refurbished two-deck vessel — once a working barge but now featuring four cabins that accommodate up to eight guests — invites you to embrace total relaxation. With all aspects of your visit included, you'll embark on an immersive yet leisurely cruise in a lesser-known region of France that's meant to be savored slowly and with an enthusiastic appetite for local food and wine.
Enchanté offers six-night (Sunday to Saturday) sailings from April through early November and can be booked either as an exclusive charter or on a per-cabin basis. With the former, the crew of five will ensure your family or group of friends enjoys a private and highly personalized experience. By opting for an individual booking, you'll share Enchanté with like-minded travelers seeking an unhurried luxury vacation in a scenic region.
A slow meander covering only about 40 miles, from Salleles d'Aude to Trebes (or vice versa on alternate weeks), will bring you to small villages such as Le Somail, home to a photogenic arched bridge and the must-see Le Trouve Tout du Livre, a bookstore crammed with 80,000 tomes. You'll pass through multiple locks, where you can opt to stay onboard or walk and bike alongside the more than 400-year-old canal as your barge pilot navigates Enchanté. Daily activities include visits to local markets and private olive oil and wine tastings. There's also always time to duck into a local café for a refreshing panaché (draft beer mixed with lemonade) or a glass of chilled rosé. The most touristy thing you'll experience is the splendid medieval citadel of Carcassonne, a one-time Cathar stronghold that's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You'll also visit tranquil Minerve, which is set on a hilltop between two scenic gorges and is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France.
What We Love
It's An Epicurean's Dream: One expects to eat well in France, and as a guest of Enchanté you'd be wise to pack loose clothing because the barge's talented chef prepares three irresistible meals daily. There's a buffet breakfast of fresh breads and croissants purchased each morning from a local boulangerie, paired with fruit, French cheeses, charcuterie, yogurt, and jam. Lunch, served al fresco on the shaded deck when weather permits, is a market buffet (salads, grilled fish, fresh oysters, olives, and more cheese) or three plated courses (Vichyssoise, trout with lentil salad, and panna cotta, for example) paired with a chilled white or rosé. Dinner is always four courses served with a white and red wine selection, all French. You'll enjoy appetizers such as sole Chablisienne, lime chili prawns with mango salsa, and red onion and goat cheese tart followed by a main course that might be duck breast with cherry sauce, bouillabaisse, or filet of beef with port sauce. Then comes a selection of three cheeses, such as rich and creamy epoisses, truffle brie, and chevre frais aude, and a delectable dessert, which on our mid-summer sailing included tarte aux citron and white mousse with raspberry sorbet.
The Relaxation Factor: A Canal du Midi cruise is likely to evoke a soothing sigh of relief for anyone frustrated by over-tourism. This region of France, with its small villages, family-owned farms, and estate wineries, is the antidote to the usual crowds of much of Europe's peak and shoulder seasons. Expect quiet moments spent sipping wine while enjoying rolling landscapes of cypress and olive trees topped by Van Gogh skies that give the journey a dream-like quality.
The Welcoming Crew: Enchanté is staffed by a personable team of five (ours hailed from France, England, Belgium, and Ireland) tasked with taking care of your every need. The barge's pilot steers the vessel along the canal and through the locks, assisted by the captain, who handles the mooring ropes and also serves as the cruise director/tour leader/driver for all excursions. The chef leads market tours and conjures memorable meals in the barge's open-concept kitchen, while two hostesses fill wine glasses, serve welcome-back aperitifs, and keep the cabins and public spaces tidy.
The Well-Designed Cabins: Each of Enchanté's four staterooms measures 165 square feet and can be configured with a duvet-topped queen bed or two twins. There's ample storage in a spacious wooden wardrobe and under-bed drawers, as well as in the teak-floored bathroom, where vanity drawers accommodate personal toiletries. The glass-enclosed shower is roomy and supplied with citrus-scented L'Occitane products; the only caveat is that anyone over six feet tall may find the shower ceiling a bit low.
Best Known For
Intimate Ambience: At 100-feet long with just an indoor living and dining area and outdoor sun deck, Enchanté is a jewel box of a boat where guests can bond over fine wine and freshly prepared cuisine.
Personalization: While there is a set itinerary on Canal du Midi sailings, there's also room for personalization — especially during a charter. For example, if guests have already seen the sights in Narbonne, where they're picked up and transferred to the barge, Enchante's captain can suggest an alternative tour. On our cruise, we opted to visit the stunning Abbaye de Fontfroide, an 11th-century abbey that's now a center for the arts.
Off-the-Beaten Path Experiences: If learning about olive oil production and truffle farming on a small estate run by a delightful mother-daughter duo (assisted by their energetic truffle-hunting dogs) or enjoying a tasting and three-course lunch at the family winery Chateau de Paraza hosted by one of the owners sounds like your ideal vacation, these are the kinds of moments European Waterways arranges for its guests.
Who It's Good For
Families and Groups of Friends: Canal barge cruising is ideal when a family or up to eight friends charter a sailing, as the resulting vacation is the equivalent of a floating villa rental with ever-changing scenery, daily excursions, and locally inspired dining.
Non-fussy Foodies: The chefs employed by European Waterways know their stuff (every meal we enjoyed onboard was delicious), and they know how to accommodate personal dietary restrictions and allergies — although both lunch and dinner are set menus. Yes, the chef can swap in fish for non-meat-eaters or prepare a vegetarian option, but the dishes are mostly a surprise (tempting aromas wafting from the kitchen often offer tantalizing hints, however!) until the plates are set on the table.
Don't Say We Didn't Warn You
It's Not Cheap: Enchanté is one of European Waterways' Ultra Deluxe canal barges. Fares, while all-inclusive (excluding crew gratuities), begin around $8,000 per person.
Evenings Can Be Quiet: While this well-renovated barge features almost every luxury — including ample air-conditioning, reliable Wi-Fi, and an aft hot tub — there are no TVs. There is a small shelf with books, playing cards, and a few games, but most guests pass the time by conversing (the hostesses will also set a playlist for background music if requested) and enjoying post-dinner walks since the ship docks overnight. One evening, you'll also be treated to a performance by local musicians.
There Are Steps to Navigate: Unlike larger river ships, which often have elevators for guests with mobility issues, canal barges only have stairs. Aboard Enchanté, you'll need to be comfortable taking a curved staircase between the main living/dining area and the cabins on the lower deck. Two of the cabins also have a few steps, either at the entry or leading to the bathroom.