How to Save — and Live Like a Local — In Tahiti

From the coastal road ringing around the island of Mo’orea, you can glance down at the lagoon and take in postcard-perfect views of floating, traditional thatched-roof bungalows. This is the money shot; the reason why Tahiti’s 118 islands are narrowed down by many to just two: Mo’orea and Bora Bora. This year marks the 50th anniversary of these iconic overwater bungalows, first built in Raiatea’s lagoon by three Californians known as the Bali Hai Boys. Now the concept has spread to 884 bungalows across seven of Tahiti’s islands. But you don’t need to stay in an overwater suite at the Four Seasons or The St. Regis—which can easily cost upwards of $2,000 per night—to get the full bungalow experience. Locals are transforming their lagoons into low-key versions of these lavish lodgings to give travelers an authentic Tahitian stay that’s just as scenic as the large resorts—at a fraction of the price.

Known as pensions, or guesthouses, these Tahitian bed-and-breakfasts stemmed from locals welcoming travelers into their homes gratis when their traditional lodgings fell through. Travelers loved the homestay concept so much that Tahitians started slowly forming their own version of Airbnb, renting out rooms or entire bungalows everywhere from islands and atolls to surf breaks near one of the best swells in the world. Now the archipelago is home to over 300 pensions with private bungalows ranging from $100 to $300 per night.

From Tahiti, hop on one of Aremiti’s high-speed ferries to Mo’orea, which take around 35 minutes and cost 2,320 XPF (or $23 USD) for a round-trip ticket. At Fare d’Hôte Tehuarupe, Elda transformed her children’s rooms into standalone bungalows, with four air-conditioned spots overlooking her stretch of private lagoon. Rates hover around $113 per night and include use of paddleboards, kayaks, and bikes, as well as a simple French breakfast spread (think baguette and fruit) served on the terrace.

Just down the road, Taoahere Beach House is one step up and typically booked out months in advance. Its four bungalows sit directly on the beach, where you can head right out on the crystal-clear water snorkeling or with stand-up paddleboards. This spot operates more in the style of a hotel (with rates starting at $265 per night in high season) and features one of the island’s liveliest beach bars, only open Friday and Saturday evenings. Even if you can’t stay here, it’s worth swinging by on the weekend to check out live music while dining on upscale beach bistro fare centered around the catch of the day. Tip: You can’t go wrong ordering Tahiti’s national dish, poisson cru, or raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime juice.