As a writer specializing in honeymoons and romantic travel, I have been lucky enough to visit Tahiti five times (go ahead and hate me) and these magical South Pacific islands never get old but cruise ships do. So I was happy to hear that the m/s Paul Gauguin (shown at left in Moorea), the 332-passenger ship that has been sailing the South Pacific for 14 years, underwent a $7 million refurbishment in January. And when I went aboard in late February for a seven-night Tahiti & Society Islands cruise, the renovations looked great. The new color scheme muted neutrals and pale blues instead of the old red and dark navy gives the ship a renewed elegance and sense of place. And the all-inclusive (with the exception of shore excursions and spa treatments) pricing makes the Paul Gauguin, while still a splurge, a great value in a region where overwater bungalows run upwards of $800 per night and food alone can tack on another $500 a day for two. Plus, book in 2012 and cruise fares include free round-trip airfare from Los Angeles. Heres what you need to know if youre thinking of booking a romantic sail through the islands of French Polynesia.
The itineraries: If its your first visit to Tahiti, the classic seven-night Tahiti & Society Islands itinerary offers a great introduction to some of the must-see islands. After boarding in Papeete, Tahitis capital and only major city, you wake anchored off of Raiatea, home to the regions most sacred marae (temple) as well as Tahitian black pearl farms. Next is the laid-back island of Tahaa, also known as the Vanilla Island because this precious spice is grown here, where you can also spend an afternoon picnicking and snorkeling from the private Motu Mahana. In the distance, you can see Bora Bora (shown at left) on the horizon and youll get to spend two full days here ogling the endless shades of blue in its lagoon and staring at enigmatic Mt. Otemanu from every possible angle. Then it's off to lush Moorea with its towering green spires, twin bays, and multitude of land and lagoon activities. Finally its back to Papeete. If you have a bit more time, you may want to book one of the 10- to 12-night cruises that also visit the Tuamotus (flat coral atolls that offer great diving and black pearl farms), the nearby Cook Islands (famous for their dancing), and even Fiji, where the Melanesian culture offers a nice contrast to Tahitis Polynesian lore and lifestyle. Those with an adventurous streak, should consider the 14-night Marquesas, Tuamotus, and Society Islands cruise that gives you a sampling of the regions various offerings from the bliss of Bora Bora to the untamed beauty of Hiva Oa and Fatu Hiva.
The passengers: Given the cost and romantic dream destination nature of Tahiti, the majority of those sailing on Paul Gauguin tend to be American and European couples, many of them 50-plus and celebrating milestone birthdays or anniversaries. During wedding season in the U.S. (May to October), youll find honeymoon couples as well. Tahiti is not necessarily a family destination, so you wont find many children onboard.
The dining: Paul Gauguin features three restaurants and all deliverfantastic and very different dining experiences. The main venue, The Verandah, serves both a buffet breakfast and lunch (with a wonderful selection of themed dishes that changes every day Greek, Italian, Asian, etc.). Theres also 24/7 room service a great option in the morning. Come evening, the Verandah (shown at right) transforms into a sophisticated French bistro seating 70 guests (reservations required) that offers a multi-course degustation menu by famed Parisian chef Jean-Pierre Vigato (of two-Michelin-star restaurant Apicius) as well as à la carte selections. Elegant LEtoile, the main dinner restaurant, serves French- and Tahitian-inspired cuisine with a menu that changes every evening, while Le Grill, adjacent to the pool, offers casual lunch options and inventive dinner appetizers and entrees.
The excursions: You will not be bored. The onboard excursion desk offers up almost 70 options (costing, on average, $69-$149), from sedate glass-bottom boat rides to pulse-racing Waverunner adventures. Two I highly recommend: the Eco Snorkeling Tour ($122) on Bora Bora, where you learn about the lagoons delicate ecosystem and then snorkel a secluded, fish-filled coral garden with expert guide Laurent Graziana of Diveasy while listening to soothing music, and the Dolphin Watching Expedition ($129) on Moorea, where resident dolphin expert Dr. Michael Poole takes you to spy on pods of acrobatic spinner dolphins.
The amenities: By day, when not exploring the islands, passengers can enjoy special local performances (the dancing Children of Raitea are adorable), get certified via the onboard PADI dive program, take out complimentary kayaks or windsurf boards from the rear watersports marina, or indulge in a massage or facial at the Deep Nature Spa. At night, youll enjoy the song and dance of the beguiling Gauguines (a troupe of Tahitian women who entertain throughout the ship); the versatile melodies (everything from easy listening to classic rock to the latest chart toppers) of house band Siglo, followed by a DJ spinning requests, in La Palette; a small casino; nightly shows (the staff show is a must) and the beautiful mini heiva, as local women (shown at left) come aboard to string heis (for the head) and leis (for the neck) of the most heavenly smelling local blossoms everyone onboard gets one!
The add-ons: If youve always had your heart set on sleeping in an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora, you can. The two-day stay on Bora Bora means you can book the Romantic Escapade package to overnight in a luxurious Sapphire Overwater Villa at the contemporary InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa (shown at right), complete with a romantic dinner for two and a canoe breakfast delivered to your bungalow ($1,850 per couple). You can also extend your stay with a three-night post-cruise option at the InterContinental Thalasso Resort (from $2,650 per person including air transfers) or at the lovely InterContinental Bora Bora Le Moana Resort (from $2,175 per person).
The cost: Seven-night cruises start at $4,297 per person and include round-trip airfare on Air Tahiti Nui from Los Angeles.