The ms Emerald has returned for a second season on the Rhône with larger staterooms, fewer passengers, and a regal new blue-and-gold color scheme. Alternating between two Tauck itineraries—Paris, Lyon, and Provence; and Monte Carlo to Paris—the 110-meter ship will accommodate just 98 passengers (similar-size riverboats average around 160), appealing to travelers in search of a sophisticated, exclusive way to sail southern France. Passengers are mostly Americans (with some Canadians, Brits, and Australians) over age 55, who enjoy food, wine, and culture; the stellar onboard guides are French, and the friendly crew hails mostly from Eastern Europe.